I needed some place to hang clothes in my laundry room, and decided a laundry room ladder would fit my needs. AND, if I created that ladder myself I could make it fit the space I had next to the extra refrigerator.
In the process of making this ladder, I made a couple of mistakes.
I am telling you this, so that you know:
even experienced woodworkers make mistakes; and
the project can turn out great despite the mistakes.
So, read all the way through to find my mistakes, so you don't make them!
I am enjoying using this laundry room ladder, but I also enjoyed the process of making it!
Because these free ladder plans were designed for the woodworking beginner, there are only a minimal amount of tools needed.
The woodworking tools used are:
I just picked out some pieces of wood from my stash of recycled wood.
BUT if you don't have a wood stash to pick from, your laundry room ladder can easily be built with new 2x2s. How much will you need? It depends on the dimensions of the space where you want to hang your ladder.
My space was 36" wide, and 24" deep. I sized my ladder to be 1" from the wall on the left, 1" from the refrigerator on the right, and 1" from the back wall.
If your ladder was 5 feet long (long enough to hang over both washer and dryer), 18 inches wide, and had 4 rungs, you would need three 8' long 2x2s. Those would cost about $10.
You would also need (16) 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. A box of 100 screws costs about $5.
The cost of the hardware to hang the ladder was about $5.
Cut both the legs and the rungs to the length you need them to fit your space.
You may also wish to round the edges using a router (if you have one), or a sander.
If you would like yours painted, it is much easier to paint before the pieces are joined together.
Even though this "ladder" is not intended to be used as a ladder, I drilled two pocket holes on each end of the rungs for strength.
On narrow pieces of wood it is hard to get the pocket holes centered! If you look closely you can see I made a mistake on one end.
I clamped a scrap piece to the back of the rung, so it would be easier to hold the rung in place when driving the pocket hole screws.
I also used the Kreg right angle clamp in one hole while driving the pocket hole screw in the other pocket hole. This clamp is not essential, but it surely is handy!!
I highly recommend it!
Clamp the second rung in place, and drive the pocket hole screws.
I wish I would have made this assembly jig before I made the laundry room ladder!!!! It would have made assembly much easier!
To see how simple this was to make, and how easy to use, click here or on the photo.
This would not be necessary if you chose a nickel color chain. Or, if you weren't as OCD as me. . . .
I drilled a small pilot hole, and then twisted the hooks into that hole.
In my case, I put the eye bolts into the bottom of a cabinet. For most of you, they will be going into the ceiling.
Don't drill any holes in the ceiling until you finish this page!!!
I had seen a laundry ladder hung like this: with 2 eye bolts in the center, and chain running to the 4 hooks. Doesn't work, folks!!!!
As soon as I started hanging garments and empty hangers on the laundry room ladder, everything slid to the back. And the front lifted up. Not too workable.
On to Plan B.
The new hanging system has 4 eye bolts into the underside of the cabinet. From each eye bolt a length of chain will be connected to the hook on each corner of the laundry room ladder.
It was very simple to get the back of the ladder level.
It took just a couple of minutes to get the front level, too.
I just love being able to take clothes from the dryer and hang them up immediately! This works great!!! I couldn't be happier with the result!
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A simple towel bar, used here to store empty hangers, was made to match the laundry room ladder.